Maroc - TAIWANTODAY.TW - Taiwan Review - 01/Feb 00:00

Brewing Legacy

Coffee connoisseurs recognize Taiwan’s excellence in beans and branding.   Just a few decades ago, coffee was considered a luxury in Taiwan, with tea the preferred beverage due to cultural tradition and price. However, as coffee gained popularity in the late 1990s and early 2000s, tea farmers gradually embraced coffee cultivation. While their initial focus was on producing visually appealing, cost-effective beans, they soon recognized Taiwan had limited production capacity compared to coffee giants like Brazil and Vietnam. This realization sparked a shift toward quality over quantity and an emphasis on specialty beans.   From specialty beans to latte art, every stage of coffee making reflects quality and expertise. (Photo by Chen Mei-ling) The introduction of premium coffee plant varieties like Geisha laid the foundation for the industry to flourish. According to Wu Yi-ling (吳怡玲), vice chair of the Taiwan Coffee Association, cultivating such varieties reflects an economic strategy to focus on the value-added market sector. High-end beans, celebrated for floral and fruity notes, meet demand from coffee enthusiasts at home and abroad, whose wide tasting experience has given rise to refined palates.   Today Taiwan’s coffee scene is ­globally recognized for its meticulous artistry. Award-winning baristas and roasters­ have brought international industry standards to the country and influenced consumer ­habits, resulting in high-quality coffee becoming accessible even in convenience stores. Rather than replacing tea, coffee has established itself as a complementary element in Taiwan’s beverage culture, showcasing the country’s ­adaptability and its people’s embrace of both tradition and innovation.   Su Kan-yung, a coffee farmer in the western county of Yunlin’s Gukeng Township, shows his award-winning SL34 and Geisha varieties. (Photo by Chen Mei-ling) Dynamic Market According to the Switzerland-based International Trade Centre, the worldwide coffee market is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.2 percent from 2023 to 2030. Taiwan currently ranks sixth globally in coffee bean imports, with an annual volume of 43,000 tons, and by 2030 domestic coffee consumption is expected to reach 50,000 tons.   This rising demand for coffee has spurred the strengthening of Taiwan’s production capabilities and has elevated its coffee culture. Gukeng Township in the western county of Yunlin, the ­country’s first coffee-growing region, played a ­pivotal role in introducing coffee cultivation. The Gukeng Farmers’ Association (GFA) ­established the Gukeng Coffee Production Area Group (CPAG) in 2019, and while the group comprises only 5 percent of Taiwan’s coffee-growing areas, it accounts for 25 percent of the country’s annual production.   Gukeng Farmers’ Association members check the quality of coffee beans from individual growers. (Courtesy of Gukeng Farmers Association) Over the years, exposure to global trends and initiatives from organizations such as the Specialty Coffee Association, World Coffee Championships and Cup of Excellence Pilot programs have also helped modernize Taiwan’s coffee culture. The former’s professional training and certification programs, which have been widely adopted in Taiwan, have educated baristas, roasters and cafe owners on international coffee standards, specialty brewing techniques and coffee tasting skills. As a result, many coffee shops in Taiwan offer premium brews and a sophisticated coffee experience. “This transformation reflects how much local people now value the origin and processes behind their coffee, not just its flavor,” Wu said. She emphasized that discerning consumers are key to encouraging local producers to prioritize production transparency and quality.   Taiwan’s participation in free trade agreements since the early 2000s has further accelerated this evolution, facilitating the exchange of ideas, expertise and equipment with global coffee leaders. Collaboration with countries like Ethiopia and Colombia have brought valuable insights to local farmers and businesses. The Taiwan International Coffee Show, established in 1985 by Taipei City-headquartered Chan Chao International, has become a cornerstone event for the industry. This annual exhibition turns a spotlight on innovations, fosters global partnerships and connects Taiwan’s producers with international buyers. “The show serves as a platform for stakeholders to exchange knowledge and explore the latest trends,” Wu noted.   The growing global interest in Taiwan’s coffee is evident. “In the past, the international market focused on Japan. Now, they are turning attention to Taiwan, recognizing that our industry is proactively anticipating high standards and exceeding them,” Wu said. This attention extends beyond coffee beans to sectors such as brewing equipment, syrups and specialty milks, creating a ripple effect that stimulates the broader economy. By emphasizing technique and quality, Taiwan has established a reputation not only as a grower but also as an imported bean processor distinguished by its specialized roasting techniques and fermentation processes. Its unique roasted coffee beans attract international buyers and enthusiasts, creating a niche market defined by artisanal appeal and a commitment to excellence.   A collaboration between Gukeng growers and Pili Glove Puppetry leverages the show’s popularity to promote the region’s coffee. (Photo by Chen Mei-ling) Growth Challenges Taiwan’s coffee industry has earned global recognition through success in international competitions, including roasting, tasting and latte art. However, according to Lai Shu-hua (賴淑華), director of GFA’s Marketing and Promotion Department, climate variability affects crop yields and quality. She explained that extreme weather events like cold snaps and typhoons pose significant challenges to maintaining a stable supply of top-grade coffee beans.   The country also faces distinct obstacles in scaling up its coffee industry. Its modest coffee plantations and high production costs limit the ability to compete with major coffee-producing nations in terms of volume, while integration of logistics, marketing support, sustainability and certification programs, advanced technology, and financial support remain significant challenges for small producers. To address these issues, Lai encouraged CPAG coffee farmers to experiment with different bean varieties—such as SL34, which received the highest rating from online specialty coffee guide Coffee Review last year. She also emphasized that fostering collaboration between processors and a unified vision between coffee farmers and coffee associations are essential to overcoming issues. Berg Wu, founder of Simple Kaffa (Photo by Chen Mei-ling) Aligning initiatives across the industry amplifies Taiwan’s strengths and presents a cohesive identity on the global stage, Lai said, citing how cooperative models enable small farmers to pool resources, invest in the latest equipment and improve marketing strategies, ultimately enhancing efficiency and product reach. Building on this spirit of cooperation, Gukeng has expanded beyond traditional agricultural partnerships by working with leading food industry players like Taipei City-headquartered Kuai Kuai Co. and exploring cross-industry initiatives. In 2024 farmers partnered with Pili Glove Puppetry, an iconic TV program fusing animation and next generation puppetry, to launch themed coffee products capitalizing on the show’s appeal.   Berg Wu (吳則霖), the 2016 World Barista Champion and founder of Simple Kaffa, echoes the importance of ­commitment and attention to detail. He noted a trend among some young entrepreneurs who view the coffee industry as a short-term venture rather than a lifelong craft. “On the contrary, coffee demands a lifetime of study and investment,” Wu said.   Simple Kaffa’s design melds natural wood with functional simplicity. (Photo by Chen Mei-ling) Changing Tastes Wu highlights the transformative impact of international competitions on industry preferences. “Italian-style espresso ­popularized medium-to-dark roasts, but the rise of light roasts—spurred by international awards—has shifted global tastes,” he explained. This shift has encouraged Taiwan’s coffee producers to refine their techniques and experiment with flavor profiles through processes like anaerobic or washed fermentation, which affects flavor by breaking down sugars and producing acids, enhancing taste complexity to create distinct profiles. After drying and ­processing, beans are roasted to fully express the flavors developed during fermentation. Such techniques, introduced through collaborations with specialists from other coffee aficionado nations, means the country remains a strong player in the highly competitive beverage industry.   Simple Kaffa exemplifies a strategic focus on quality and visibility. By establishing outlets in prime locations such as Taipei 101 in the capital and Taoyuan High-Speed Rail Station in the northern Taiwan city, as well as a forthcoming outlet at Taipei’s Nangang Exhibition Center, the brand reaches international audiences. High-profile locations serve as both indigenous product showcases and practical entry points for visitors to experience coffee excellence.    While individual brands set the standard, the future of Taiwan’s coffee industry lies in the high-end, value-added market segment. Coffee farmers are forming partnerships with brand owners and chain stores, embracing global trends and working collaboratively to enhance Taiwan’s standing as a coffee hub. By prioritizing collaboration and innovation, the industry has carved out a distinct identity in the global market. Advanced technical processes, participation in international brewing and barista competitions and the cultivation of skilled professionals have positioned Taiwan as a leader in a thriving premium coffee sector.  Write to KRAKIAS KAI at kwhuang@mofa.gov.tw