Maroc - SAU.COM.AU - content - 17/May 14:22

Gentleman’s Skyline

MiscellaneousNow that you have most the mechanical parts to make it work, there are some sundry parts that are required that may not have been considered. Not an exhaustive list by any means, but a rough guide. R34 Service Manual Super easy to find a .PDF copy online, super helpful for referencing vacuum lines and a handy tool to have overall. Oil Feed Line Restrictor: AN4 Ball Bearing Turbo 1mm Restrictor RWF-399-04 - This should've been in the oil feed section, but forgot to add it. If running an OP6/ball bearing turbo, you'll need an oil restrictor. I put it at the turbo end which made installation easy, and seemed logical. Turbo Locking Tabs: Used beneath the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold to prevent loosening over time e.g. here. Boost Solenoid*: Whilst even ~4.7 psi on the wastegate actuator alone makes the car much more enjoyable, the increase to ~7 psi was a pleasant improvement. I got the OEM solenoid with the rest of my kit and wired it using the defunct intake manifold butterfly wiring plug. Boost Gauge: You'll definitely want a boost reference to make sure everything is working as it should. Brake Upgrade: I've previously covered this earlier in the thread, but self-explanatory... Oil: You'll be draining the oil anyway, so now's a good time to do an oil change. Personal preference as to which you choose, there is plenty of discussion about different oils, but I've stuck with Nulon APEX+ 10W-40 Full Synthetic for no particular reason. Will need 5L. Oil Filter & Sump Plug Crush Washer: Originally used a Ryco Z442 , but currently trying the new Penrite PF1040 (interchangeable with the Z442). The nut on top of the filter is a neat touch. Crush washer is a Tridon TSW010. Coolant/Demineralised Water: You'll also be draining the coolant as a side-effect of installing the water lines. I stuck with the genuine Nissan concentrate, easily sourced from your local Nissan parts centre, otherwise whichever coolant you can find. If using the concentrate, will need demineralised water to mix with. Silicon Vacuum Lines & Clamps: I took this opportunity to replace every vacuum line. 3m of 6mm ID and 3m of 4mm ID was sufficient, with not a lot left over. You'll definitely need vacuum lines for the BOV vacuum source and the wastegate actuator reference at the minimum. I'll cover the routing of vacuum lines in the build thread. Oil-Resistant Hose (16mm/5/8" ID)*: SAAS SRH16 - Pretty common for the PCV hose connecting the cam covers to split due to age (which mine did), which will need to be removed when changing the spark plugs. Given the inflated price for the genuine replacement, I found a cheap hose kit at Autobarn which was the correct ID. Jack & Jack Stands Torque Wrench Electrical Cabling/Heat Shrink/Soldering Iron/Solder: Re Secret Squirrel Tweak & Boost Solenoid*. Degreaser/Parts Cleaner WD40 Anti-Seize